Our Journey to Pelechuco: Among Mountains, Alpacas, and Artisan Hearts

“Pelechuco” means “corner of the mist” in the native Quechua language — a name that perfectly honors the landscape of this remote place.

Although only about 350 km separate La Paz, Bolivia’s main city, from Pelechuco, the trip requires 9 to 10 hours by 4x4 vehicle. In fact, there is no proper road leading there — just a series of rugged paths. The route has three sections:

• El Alto – Achacachi, an 80 km asphalt stretch that takes about 1.5 hours;

• Achacachi – Puerto Acosta, a 99 km dirt road that takes 2 hours;

• and the final 186 km stretch, the longest and most challenging, which takes 5 to 6 hours and winds through rocky highlands and the Andean range.

Along this route, we embarked on a very special journey toward Pelechuco, a small village hidden in the mountains of northern Bolivia, close to the Peruvian border. It was a family adventure — together with my father Carlos and brother Gonzalo — with the purpose of meeting the herders, weavers, and artisans who bring the soul of alpaca fiber to life.

The road: a path between clouds and valleys

Leaving La Paz for Pelechuco means entering a landscape that changes with every turn. We passed through deep valleys, crystal-clear rivers, and mountains covered with ichu — that golden highland grass that dances with the wind.
The journey was long — more than ten hours of curves, dust, and silence — but also a lesson in patience and wonder. At every stop, the views reminded us of the grandeur and purity of the altiplano.

We crossed villages that reflect the ancestral cultures of this region — Aymara, Quechua, Puquina, and Uru — the latter being descendants of the ancient Uru Chipaya civilization, dating back to 2500 B.C. These ancestors have left deep marks on the identity and lifestyle of the Andean people.

Ulla Ulla and Charazani are towns known for their chamanes and kallawayas — traditional healers who practice natural medicine based on herbs. Their name means “those who carry the plants on their backs.” This region is also a natural reserve, home to native pastures and herds of alpacas and vicuñas, prized for the fineness of their fiber.

We continued our way until the majestic Apolobamba mountain range appeared before us — a chain of the Andes shared by Peru and Bolivia. With its highest peak at 6,044 meters above sea level, Apolobamba is both imposing and remote, which explains why so few ever visit it.

The descent from the mountains follows a narrow gorge carved by a river. A winding dirt path snakes along the mountainside, where hanging glaciers loom overhead. At their base lie moraines — fields of crushed rock left behind by ancient ice flows, silent witnesses to the passage of time. The ever-present mist gave the whole landscape a surreal beauty.
We drove that stretch carefully, captivated by the view, and finally reached Pelechuco, at 4,400 meters above sea level.

Before arriving, we stopped in Agua Blanca, a small village inhabited by weavers and artisans who handcraft beautiful alpaca garments. They kindly offered us shelter for the night at their local weaving center — a building constructed and financed by an NGO. Nearby stood a rustic house that serves as a small museum, displaying relics of the Inca past: ancient textiles, ponchos, blankets, and ceramics — vessels, animal figures, and other archaeological pieces found throughout the region.

After meeting the artisans, visiting their workshops, and sharing a warm meal they generously offered, we continued the short final stretch to Pelechuco. The entrance to the town is fascinating — among ancient Inca-era dwellings, some still inhabited, others in ruins.
From here, hiking trails connect Charazani and Pelechuco, and the famous route between Pelechuco and Apolo, a tropical region rich in gold-bearing rivers, lush vegetation, and diverse wildlife. It was along this path that the Incas once traveled to the lowlands to obtain gold and tropical fruits for their pleasure.

Today, Pelechuco is home to about 7,000 inhabitants, mostly miners organized in cooperatives that extract various minerals — especially gold.
There are around 45,000 alpacas and 75,000 llamas, the wealth of the local livestock economy. These noble animals provide both fiber and meat, sustaining the livelihoods of herders, farmers, and artisans who transform their wool into crafts and textiles.

Life among the mountains

Pelechuco is a peaceful village where time moves at the rhythm of the sun and the song of birds. Its stone streets and adobe houses preserve an authenticity that touches the heart.
We met families who live from alpaca herding — noble, resilient animals that are the soul of their economy and culture. Each herd represents years of work, care, and knowledge passed down through generations.

The guardians of the fiber

We met breeders who select the finest fibers with almost artistic precision, and weavers who, with their hands and traditional looms, transform the wool into true works of art.
They spoke to us about the daily effort, the cold, the distances — but also about the joy of keeping an ancestral tradition alive.
We shared a warm mate, many laughs, and the feeling of learning something essential: that behind every handmade garment lies a story of land, family, and pride.

A stronger bond with our roots

This journey was more than a work expedition — it was a return to our roots.
Seeing up close how alpaca fiber is cared for, spun, and woven reminded us why we do what we do: to honor craftsmanship and connect the world with the soul of the Andes.

On our way back to La Paz, our hearts were full and our backpacks heavy with inspiration. Pelechuco taught us that the true wealth of Bolivia lies in its people, its land, and every thread born from their union.

As Alcides d’Orbigny once said:

“Here, nature and man challenge the heights.”

Written by: Carlos Garrón Ugarte